Introducing the eco-home underfloor heating system: a complete wet underfloor heating system. This guide is intended as support for the installation of your Ecotherm underfloor heating system and does not replace the instruction manual.
The system consists of three main components: the distribution manifold, the coils of PEX piping, and the fixing system. Prior to installation, please ensure you have your CAD drawing and pipe schedule and also ensure that your floor construction corresponds with the CAD drawings. The windows and doors fixings should be in place in order to ensure correct location of pipe work. Make sure you understand the design and pay careful attention to pipe spacing and subfloor preparation.
The subfloor should be dry and clear of any other debris or materials. Remove any residues stuck to the floor, and remove the construction and building waste with a stiff brush. Other terrains should be excluded until installation is completed. The floor insulation is laid over the subfloor followed by a polythene layer.
The polythene layer prevents the pumped liquid screed from escaping, and any joints should be securely taped. Next the edge insulation is placed around the sides of the room against all internal and external walls. Edge insulation stops heat loss through the base of walls and allows the floor to expand. Fix the manifold in place and install the manifold according to your CAD drawing. Generally the manifold is mounted 600 millimeters above the floor and should be level. Ample space should be given to the manifold so that the unit can be serviced in the future.
A fixed system can be a combination of grid rails and staples. The grip rails are fixed at regular intervals across the floor area. Staples can be used to anchor the grip rails to the insulation. The underfloor heating pipe is then laid across the floor in line with the design of the detailed CAD drawings supplied by Eco. The connecting pipes and manifold pipes should be cut straight with a pipe cutter. Do not use any type of saw to carry out the cutting.
Take note of the compression ring over the pipe and push hose pillar completely into the pipe. Push the hose pillar with euro cone into the valve while holding the pipe. Keep pushing upwards until the nut is tightened. Do not over-time filling and pressurizing the system.
Close the isolating balance on manifold, connect hoses to the filling, and drain point on the manifold. One hose should be connected to the main water supply and the other should discharge to a suitable drain point. Make sure all the plastic valve caps are in the closed position by turning them clockwise. The flowmeter valve’s flow rail will be closed. Turn on the cold water supply to open valves on the drain point and fill point by turning in the direction indicated on the valve.
Open the first valve cap fully by turning anti-clockwise. Open flow meter valve on same circuit. Unclip the white plastic flow meter cap from the metal base with the aid of a flathead screwdriver and slightly lift up the white cap over black plastic octagonal nut. Ensure the top of the white cap is level with bottom of the transparent flow meter. Turn white cap anti-clockwise so the black nut and black plastic base align with the flow meter valve.
Click white cap back down on its metal base. The air vent caps need to be unscrewed to allow air to escape. Let water flow around the circuit until there is a continuous flow of water through the drain pipe with no air bubbles. Open the circuit by turning the button clockwise as far as it will go. The flow of water should stop immediately: if not, there is still air left in the pipe. Repeat this process until all circuits are filled and vented.
Once all circuits are filled and vented, open all turn buttons so that water is flowing through all circuits. Close the valve on return rail drain point and let pressure build for a few seconds. Before closing valve on flow rate try pressurizing the system now that system is filled as it needs to be pressurized to 6 bar.
In order to test, take the pressurized system to 6 bar using a burger pump and connect to the fill point. Leave for 10 minutes, and after this time, the pressure should have dropped by no more than one or two bar. If pressure drops significantly, check the system for leaks and make sure all connections are tight but not over-tightened. The final process is the screed. This can be either a sand and cement screed or a self-leveling liquid screed.